The Riga route for Wagnerians

Walk in the center of Old Riga

Did you find my yesterday’s post about the life of Richard Wagner in Riga interesting? Are you planning to visit this wonderful town? Give yourself a pleasure of walking around the Wagner related places.

Kaleju iela

Start your walk at the house No. 18/20 in Kaleju Street, where Wagner settled right after his arrival in Riga and lived in 1837-1838 before the arrival of his wife Minna. Wagner himself described the residence as "a poky, uncomfortable apartment in the old city", but it was in walking distance from the theater, where he worked.

A small narrow lane to the left of the house will take you to the parallel street - Riharda Vagnera iela - the way which Wagner took going to work for several months.

Riharda Vagnera iela, Vagnera Zale

A very small street can be completely viewed in a few minutes. The age and condition of many buildings suggest that they are the same as the composer might have seen them. Building No.4 accommodates Vagnera Zale - the Concert Hall named after Wagner. This is the building of the former German theater, in which Richard Wagner worked for two years.  Here he became famous as the first conductor in the world who turned his face to the orchestra.

“The Wagner Theater” is under refurbishment now, and you can attend musical concerts there.

Kalku iela

On the way from Richard Wagner Street to Kalku Street, make a stop at the house No. 24. Legend has it that after the concerts the great composer did not hurry home, but lingered in a small pub located in this house. Now it is called the Cash Bar.

Order a couple of drinks here, and you may feel the urge to write a sequel to the Rienzi. And if the inspiration still does not come, proceed towards Brivibas Street.

Brivibas iela

In the house No. 33 on the street now called Brivibas, was a mansion in which Wagner rented more spacious lodging after the arrival of his wife Minna in Riga. The original mansion was replaced by a new house where at the front entrance there is a stained-glass window created to memorize the Wagners’ residence here in 1838-1839.

The way from the little pub on Kalku St. to this mansion can be covered in 15 minutes by an unhurried walk.  Just try to imagine in what mood did Wagner return home by this path in the evenings. Having quarreled with everyone in the theater, dissatisfied with the scale of his stage production work and small fees, furious by hearing constant rumors about his wife adultery with the director of the theatre and a bit drunk.

Palasta iela

Not enough about Wagner? Go back to the center of Old Riga to Palasta Street, 4. Here, right behind The Riga Dome, in the Museum of Riga History and Navigation, Wagner's conductor's wand with a squeezed woman’s hand on the end is displayed. The legend has it that while conducting, Wagner used it to scratch his back. It is not easy to find this item as not all museum keepers know about it. Look for the column hall on the second floor, the first stand on the left from the entrance to the hall.

Melngalvju Nams (House of Blackheads)

During his stay in Riga, Richard Wagner conducted the symphony orchestra at the House of Blackheads. In 2017, a memorial plaque was erected there with the inscription: "Riga is the city of Wagner's youth".

Latvian National Opera House

Finally, you should enjoy a performance at the Latvian National Opera. Over the years the theater has staged the "Flying Dutchman", the “Thannhauser” and "The Ring of the Nibelung". Pay attention to the bas-relief of Wagner in the upper right corner above the stage. It's best to go up to the gallery to get a good look at it.

You are most welcome to share your impressions or ask for more information. May I wish all the Wagner’s admirers a nice time in Riga!

On the photo: illustration of the artist Iryna Potapenko to my story “Reunion on the banks of the Daugava”